Thursday, September 24, 2009

A New Year in India: Synagogue, Judaism, and Hinduism

Hello my dear family and friends!

Last weekend was Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, and yesterday was Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement. My mom's inquiry about my holiday prompted me to reflect about my recent growth. I couldn't just answer in a few words. As this is a long post, I have bolded key phrases so that you can skip to what interests you. And I’ll be posting it in more manageable chunks.

On Erev Rosh Hashanah, the evening the holiday began, I asked the servant at my house (a whole other topic of discussion) to cook dinner, and I performed and explained the table rituals to 3 of my friends. I thought about you all, but I was happy to experience the holiday in a new way, with my present family around me. I went to synagogue with one of my friends.

The Judah Hyam Synagogue (www.jewishdelhi.org) has been here for about 50 years. Currently it is being led by Ezekiel, a man who volunteers to do so and also works for the Human Rights something or other organization in Delhi. He is an Indian Jew who studied in Israel, and has been really sweet to me. Each time go to the synagogue is different because in addition to the five or so Jews of Indian origin who come, there are Jews who, like me, are living in Delhi for a time or just passing through. Ezekiel orients the service to the attendants of each particular service.

Once a big French family on vacation invited my roommate and I to eat dinner with them at their hotel across the street, the Taj Mahal. It reminded me of my family celebrating holidays together in hotel rooms, happily crammed together lighting Channukah candles. What great times we have had after dinner in smoosh piles! (That part missing). On Rosh Hashanah the service was led by Orthodox Israeli men. It was fine, but not very meaningful to me. Yom Kippur, however, was far more meaningful, partly because I had already written a large chunk of this blog post in through it understood my experiences more fully. I spent the whole day at synagogue, praying and meditating. It turns out that Ezekiel is a meditator himself.

The outside of the synagogue:














The inside of the synagogue, it's Sephardi in style, was slightly renovated by a community member before the high holidays (after this pic was taken)














The adjacent Jewish cemetery. In the background is the dwelling of the (non-Jewish) ground-keeper's family, with little kids running around:





























Practicing Judaism in India, an extremely religious country, full of traditions that are new to me, highlights different parts of Judaism. Not only am I more aware of my own religious beliefs, I am also exposed to new ideas to consider.

For the first part of my trip here, I really couldn't relate to Hinduism, the majority religion. The extent to which Hinduism, as I had experienced it, is based on routine rituals and seemingly blind faith in anthropomorphized gods seemed to foreign to my own Jewish mindset. In Judaism, we are constantly warned against "idolatry," creating visual representations of God. How could I relate to a religion in which people pray to physical statues of deities? But at the synagogue I realized how these two phenomena, routine ritual and blind faith, appear in Judaism in different forms. When a Hindu gives an offering (whether it be bangles, food, money, or flowers) or prays to a deity, how is this different from a Jew who puts a note into the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem or who is consumed by the need to perform a ritual commandment perfectly or pray in a specific way? How is the ritual of bringing out the Torah, parading it around the room so that people can kiss it, blessing it, reading ancient words from it, any different than the fire ceremony where a flame is circled around a deity? And in terms of blind faith, what greater proof does the Jewish tradition provide that a God exists than does Hinduism?

I realized that the qualms I have with Judaism are the same as those I have with Hinduism, just in a different form. Oh, so human of me to critique others before critiquing myself. Then some other comparisons started to emerge. Of course, there is depth behind rituals and faith in both religions, though it may be accessed in different ways and to different extents.Both religions are extremely diverse (Hinduism even more so than Judaism), and these short illustrations do not do them justice. Both religions encourage a personal relationship with divinity. Hinduism is practiced on a very individual basis wherein people are free to choose whichever deity they want to pray to, and construct shrines at home. In Judaism, individual prayers are encouraged in the context of a strong communal space.

One major difference is that mainstream Hinduism is extremely fluid, and does not contain a widely accepted specific code of behavior. While I am accustomed to emulating the qualities of God (also anthropomorphizing to say that God has qualities I could approximate) and following God’s laws, Hindu gods are presented as openly being both good and bad. The Upanishads, Hindu writings, contain concepts of morality, but there seems to be a big divide between devotion to god/s and moral practice.

The story of each religion is told extremely differently: Jewish texts are supposed to be the word of God and history of the Jewish people, while Hindu lore is largely oral, visual, and mythological. In both Hinduism and Judaism there are priests, though Cohanim (Jewish priests) were far more relevant in ancient times than today, while Brahmins (caste of Hindu priests) are relevant contemporaneously.

The entrance to a Hindu temple in Delhi dedicated to the god Hanuman, the monkey god:










































A Hindu temple at Yamanotri, the source of the sacred Yamuna river (I sent some picture of this area last time). The temple is rebuilt every few years because every winter it is completely submerged in snow:



















To be continued with more about what this actually means for me religiously and a general update......

Friday, July 24, 2009

Tammy Speaks!

Hi All!

For the last month I've been doing an intensive Hindi program at the Landour Language School (one of the most renowned in India) in the foothills of the Himalayas, or as they call them here, the Himalyas. My Hindi is coming along and I can sort of communicate now. A good start. Its beautiful up here outside of Mussoorie. I got to live in the middle of a forest for a month, and I lucked out and got my own room. I've been meditating, doing yoga, and enjoying not having a lot of commitments. I feel really accepted by the group and loved, and I've also been able to spend time away from the group. I've realized that six months is SUCH a short time to get to know India.

Tomorrow morning I am headed back to Delhi where I will be looking for a place to live, choosing my classes, solidifying my internship (probably in theater), and finding a yoga guru. I'm excited to start the second big part of the trip.

I've been really happy. I know that I am in the right place right now. And things keep lining up for me. Roman, another student at the language school (not from the group) offered to teach me yoga for free while I've been up here. I have a great contact for an internship in Delhi, named Subhash who has already shown me around a bit, the director of the EAP program is a professor from Irvine who wrote a book called Perspectives on the Female Body (!!), and everything I ask for seems to be granted. I feel incredibly blessed. I can feel myself growing a lot and learning to trust myself and take care of myself and lots of other good stuff.

I haven't really seen much of India yet though. Which is what the next few months are for, I suppose!

PICTURES
1. My friend Hayley from Berkeley who I hadn't seen for a year happened to be really close to where I was staying. She was at a farm started by Vandana Shiva, an incredible Indian environmental/agricultural/fair trade activist who I did a presentation about in class last fall. On the farm there is a seed bank (left) where Navdanya, the NGO, preserves local plant species that are threatened by corporate genetically engineered seeds. And there I am with Halyley and a cow (rather common around here). One of the volunteers from the farm ended up coming back to Mussoorie with us for the night.

















2. This is a Hindu temple on the top of a mountain around here. There was a beautiful gate between the temple and a path down the mountain. And some parents asked us if we would take a picture with their kids. The girl in the white shirt is a really close friend of mine who is coming to Delhi with me, and that's Thia on the right who is going to the south for the rest of the trip. There are temples and shrines everywhere! It's really interesting to be in such a religious country.















3.Our program took us all on a trip to visit a Hindi temple in the mountains up here. One of the most beautiful places I have ever been, see below. The picture at the beginning is also from Yammanotri.
















4. Some pictures from around Mussoorie.


Monday, June 22, 2009

I have arrived in the land of curry!

Hello my friends and family!

Welcome to my blog, which I will be updating over the course of my six month study abroad trip in India.

I am in Delhi. What a concept! More specifically, it is a dream come true. I am actually quite surprised by how comfortable I feel here, maybe because I have done a lot of traveling before and I had learned a lot about India. Or maybe the culture shock is lurking just around the corner. Either way, I am enjoying exploring and I am even more excited to settle in.

One of the most incredible experiences I have had here was visiting a Bahai temple immediately followed by a visit to a Hindu temple in South Delhi. The Bahai temple was the epidome of organized: the visitors lined up, checked their shoes and got numbers, and entered the temple at fifteen minute intervals in a single file line. I had a wonderful time meditating, and realized that even though I am so far away from the people I love (you all), I still have my best friend here, me.

After the Bahai temple (and my first Indian toilet/Delhi belly experience) my friends and I walked through narrow alley ways with shops that seemed to be catering to Hindu pilgrims on our way to a Hindu temple. There were GORGEOUS bangals, one of which I broke when I tried it on. When we got to the temple, we put our shoes down with the others (always a bit anxiety provoking because they could be so easily taken) and pushed our way into the temple along with the Hindu worshippers. Everybody was packed in against each other as we walked around the circular path outside of the shrine room. Periodically, a gaurd would open a gate to the shrine room and the crowd would rush in.

Inside was a circular space with a shrine in the middle and a man standing on it accepting sacrifices. The room was brightly lit. The shrine was made of silver and there were flowers and various objects on it. People in the crowd were holding up their gifts and yelling to get the man's attention. I saw one person who brought a miniature diaramma type scene to give. Everyone was sweating, it was essentially a moshpit. It was quite an adrenaline rush! A man tied a red string on my arm for "shanti," peace. After leaving the temple we walked along the outside of it where there were smaller shrines with candles and incense lit. This is what I came here for, I thought to myself.

That's all for now. Thanks for reading my blog!

Hugs and hugs and more hugs,
Tammy